Shikoku Itinerary: How to Spend 5, 7 or 10 Days on Japan’s Underrated Island
Shikoku is Japan’s smallest main island and one of its most overlooked, which is exactly why it rewards the travellers who make the trip.
Japan was the destination that first made me fall in love with solo travel back in 2017. Since then, the places I have enjoyed most have often been those away from the obvious route: quiet gardens, traditional towns, mountain roads and small cafés where the day seems to move at a gentler pace. Shikoku brings all of those things together.
The island is divided into four prefectures — Kagawa, Tokushima, Kochi and Ehime — and each feels surprisingly distinct. You can begin among the landscape gardens and art islands of Takamatsu, drive into the steep valleys of Iya, eat flame-seared bonito in Kochi and finish with a soak at Dogo Onsen in Matsuyama.
When I travelled through Ehime, it was the quieter moments that stayed with me: wandering through the preserved streets of Uchiko, looking across the Hijikawa River from Ozu and discovering how welcoming the smaller towns could be. Shikoku offers the culture, scenery and food people often travel to Japan hoping to find, but with fewer crowds and more room to slow down.
The hard part isn’t finding things to do — it’s fitting them together. Should you start in Takamatsu or Matsuyama? Train or rental car? How many places should you base yourself in, and what should you drop if you only have five days?
This guide answers those questions and gives you three ready-to-use routes: a 5-day, a 7-day, and a 10-day Shikoku itinerary, each with real transport details so you can plan a trip that feels full without being exhausting.
Shikoku itinerary at a glance
| Trip length | Suggested route | Bases | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5 days | Takamatsu → Matsuyama | 2 | Art, gardens, castles and onsen |
| 7 days | Takamatsu → Tokushima → Iya Valley → Kochi | 3 | Art, mountain scenery and food |
| 10 days | Takamatsu → Tokushima → Iya Valley → Kochi → Matsuyama | 4 | A more complete Shikoku road trip |
These routes can be travelled in reverse. An open-jaw trip — arriving through one airport and leaving from another — will usually save more time than returning to your starting point.
Why visit Shikoku?
Shikoku offers the version of Japan many travellers are actually looking for: local, unhurried, and refreshingly uncrowded.
The island is best known for the 88-temple pilgrimage (the Shikoku Henro, founded in the tradition of the monk Kūkai), the contemporary-art islands of Naoshima and Teshima, the mountain scenery of the Iya Valley, and onsen towns like Dogo. It is also home to several of Japan’s twelve surviving original castle keeps, including those in Matsuyama, Kochi and Uwajima.
Food is another reason to visit. Kagawa is famous for sanuki udon, Kochi for katsuo no tataki (seared bonito), Tokushima for sudachi citrus and ramen, and Ehime for tai-meshi and sweet mikan oranges. These regional specialities are often simple, inexpensive and closely connected to the landscape around them. For more inspiration, see my guides to things to do across Shikoku and the top things to do in Ehime.
How to get to Shikoku
Shikoku has four main gateway airports:
- Takamatsu Airport in Kagawa
- Tokushima Awaodori Airport
- Kochi Ryoma Airport
- Matsuyama Airport in Ehime
All four have domestic connections, with Tokyo Haneda being the most useful hub for many international travellers. Domestic flights from Tokyo generally take around 1 hour 20 minutes to 1 hour 40 minutes, depending on the airport and route.
The easiest flying strategy
Rather than booking a return flight through the same Shikoku airport, look for an open-jaw itinerary. For example:
- Fly into Takamatsu and out of Matsuyama: best for a westbound itinerary covering Kagawa, Iya, Kochi and Ehime.
- Fly into Kochi and out of Takamatsu: useful when travelling north through the interior and finishing with Naoshima.
- Fly into Matsuyama and out of Takamatsu: ideal for an Ehime and Seto Inland Sea trip.
This avoids spending half a day retracing your route simply to return a car or catch a flight. When comparing flights, include the cost of one-way car-rental charges — sometimes the cheapest airfare creates the most expensive ground itinerary.
How to get around Shikoku
Reaching Shikoku by train
Travellers coming from Kyoto, Osaka or Hiroshima can take the Shinkansen to Okayama and transfer to the Marine Liner for Takamatsu (a nationwide Japan Rail Pass can cover this leg). The journey between Okayama and Takamatsu takes roughly 55 minutes and crosses the Seto Ōhashi Bridge, offering your first views of the Seto Inland Sea.
Shikoku does not have a Shinkansen line, but limited-express trains connect its main cities:
- Takamatsu → Matsuyama — Limited Express Ishizuchi, about 2 hours 30 minutes.
- Takamatsu → Kochi — Limited Express Shimanto, about 2 hours 10 minutes.
- Takamatsu → Tokushima — Limited Express Uzushio, about 1 hour 5 minutes.
- Takamatsu → Ōboke (gateway to the Iya Valley) — Limited Express on the Dosan Line, about 1 hour.
One catch worth planning around: there is no fast direct train between Kochi and Matsuyama. The highway bus is normally more practical than making a lengthy rail detour. If you’ll rely on trains, the All Shikoku Rail Pass (available in 3-, 4-, 5- and 7-day versions) usually pays for itself and covers JR Shikoku plus several private lines.
Shikoku car rental
A rental car is the most flexible option and the clear winner for rural areas — above all the Iya Valley, where buses run only a handful of times a day. Cars are easy to pick up at all four airports and major stations from operators like Toyota Rent a Car, Times, Nippon and Orix. Reserve through a comparison platform such as DiscoverCars or Getrentacar.com before travelling, particularly during cherry-blossom season, Golden Week and the August festivals.
Two things to prepare: bring an International Driving Permit (required to rent), and ask for a car with an ETC card so you can use the expressway toll gates without fumbling for cash. If you’re nervous about driving in Japan, note that Shikoku’s roads are far quieter than Honshu’s — but Japan drives on the left, which will feel familiar to visitors from the UK but may take time to adjust to for drivers from continental Europe. Main roads and expressways are generally well maintained, but the mountain routes into Iya are narrow and winding, so allow extra time.
Parking in Shikoku
Parking is usually straightforward in rural areas and at larger attractions, but it can be expensive or limited in the main cities.
Many hotels advertise parking without guaranteeing an individual space, so contact the hotel before arrival, particularly when staying in a small ryokan or central business hotel. Arriving early also gives you a better chance of using the hotel car park rather than searching for a public one nearby.
Japanese cities have many time-based “coin parking” areas. Some car parks use a locking plate beneath the vehicle, while others use number-plate cameras. Payment machines may ask for your parking-space number rather than issuing a ticket. A translation app with camera mode is extremely helpful.
Flying within Shikoku
Flying only makes sense when it removes real backtracking — for example, flying home from a different airport than you arrived at. Each gateway has its own airport: Takamatsu (TAK), Matsuyama (MYJ) — the island’s busiest — Kochi Ryoma (KCZ), and Tokushima Awaodori (TKS). For most 5–10 day trips, ground transport is faster door to door.
The practical mix for first-timers: trains between the cities, and a rental car for the Iya Valley and any coastal detours.
Where should you start?
Your starting point depends on how you arrive, but the four gateways are Takamatsu, Tokushima, Kochi, and Matsuyama.
If you’re coming overland from Honshu or the Kansai region, Takamatsu is usually the easiest entry — the Marine Liner train crosses the Seto Ōhashi Bridge from Okayama in about 55 minutes. If you’re flying in directly, pick the airport that best matches your route rather than the most famous city. The goal is simply to avoid doubling back.
Choose your first base first, then build the loop around it.
How many bases should you choose?
For Shikoku, fewer bases is almost always better. The island looks small on a map but takes longer to cross than people expect, and changing hotels every night eats into the time you came for.
- 5-day trip: 2 bases.
- 7-day trip: 3 bases.
- 10-day trip: 3 or 4 bases.
The rule of thumb: stay longer in the places that are hardest to reach — the Iya Valley above all — and use the larger cities as comfortable overnight bases for nearby sightseeing.
Best route order for Shikoku
The most efficient Shikoku itinerary runs as a loop, not a back-and-forth. A logical order is:
Takamatsu (or Tokushima) → Naoshima → Iya Valley → Kochi → Matsuyama
You can run it in reverse depending on your arrival and departure points. Whatever you do, avoid zigzagging across the island — the interior mountains make east–west shortcuts slow.
What to skip if time is limited
If you only have a few days, don’t try to see everything. Shikoku is at its best at a slower pace, and cramming all four prefectures into a short trip means more time in transit than out exploring.
With limited time, the first thing to drop is the remote interior — the Iya Valley is spectacular but costs you the better part of two days to do properly. A short trip is far better spent combining one art stop, one city or onsen base, and at most one nature area, rather than collecting prefectures. Choose quality over quantity.
How much time to spend in each area
| Area | Suggested time |
|---|---|
| Takamatsu | 1 day (2 if adding Naoshima) |
| Naoshima | 1 full day |
| Teshima | 1 full day (if included) |
| Iya Valley | 1–2 days |
| Kochi | 1–2 days |
| Matsuyama | 1–2 days |
| Tokushima | 1 day (longer for day trips) |
If you like a relaxed pace, spend at least one night in each base; add a second night in the areas that reward slower travel.
5-day Shikoku itinerary
Two bases, minimal hotel changes. This route deliberately sticks to the coast and the Seto Inland Sea so you’re not repacking every morning. It delivers the classic combination — art island, historic city, and one of Japan’s oldest onsen — without the long detour inland.
Honest trade-off: five days isn’t enough to add the Iya Valley without moving hotels daily. If the mountains are your priority, use the alternative route at the end of this section — but you can’t comfortably do both the interior and the west coast in five days.
Base 1 — Takamatsu (Days 1–2)
Day 1: Takamatsu
Begin at Ritsurin Garden, a beautifully designed landscape of ponds, bridges, tea houses and carefully shaped pine trees.
Japanese gardens are among my favourite places to visit in Japan, and Ritsurin has the kind of detail that encourages you to slow down. Do not simply follow the shortest route through the grounds. Leave time for the viewpoints, stop for tea and look back across the water towards Mount Shiun.
Afterwards, explore Takamatsu’s shopping arcades or walk around the harbour. Finish with sanuki udon — you will find everything from quick self-service counters to specialist restaurants serving thick, chewy noodles with tempura or a simple broth.
Day 2: Naoshima day trip
Catch the ferry from Takamatsu Port to Miyanoura (about 50–60 minutes) for a day on Naoshima, the Seto Inland Sea’s famous art island. Prioritise the Chichu Art Museum and the Benesse Art Site, then find Yayoi Kusama’s yellow pumpkin on the waterfront. The island is larger than it first appears, so avoid trying to walk between every attraction. Return to Takamatsu for the night. (Book Chichu tickets in advance — some entries are timed.)
Where to stay in Takamatsu
- JR Hotel Clement Takamatsu is the most convenient choice for this itinerary. It is beside JR Takamatsu Station and within easy reach of the ferry port, making it ideal for an early Naoshima departure.
- WeBase Takamatsu is a modern and generally more affordable option near the downtown shopping and restaurant area. It suits solo travellers who prefer to be close to the evening atmosphere rather than directly beside the station.
Base 2 — Matsuyama (Days 3–5)
Day 3: Travel to Matsuyama
Take the Limited Express Ishizuchi west (about 2 hours 30 minutes) to Matsuyama. In the afternoon, ride the ropeway up to Matsuyama Castle, which stands above the city on Mount Katsuyama. The castle is one of just twelve original castle keeps left in Japan. For more on the city, see my guide to the best things to do in Matsuyama.
Day 4: Dogo Onsen
Spend the day around Dogo Onsen. The historic bathhouse is the symbol of the neighbourhood, but the experience is not limited to taking a bath. Wander through the covered arcade, visit the small temples and shrines nearby and stop for an Ehime mikan drink or sweet.
I would stay in the Dogo area rather than visiting for only an hour. In the evening, guests walk between the ryokans and bathhouses in yukata, giving the streets a completely different atmosphere from central Matsuyama. Dogo Onsen Honkan has a history said to extend back around 3,000 years and is protected as an Important Cultural Property.
Day 5: Uchiko, Ozu or departure
Use your final morning for one of Ehime’s smaller historic towns.
Uchiko is the easiest option. Its preserved merchant quarter contains traditional wax-production houses, warehouses and Uchiko-za, a beautiful early-20th-century theatre.
Ozu needs a little more time but offers a reconstructed wooden castle, the elegant Garyu Sanso villa and peaceful streets beside the Hijikawa River. Ozu was one of my favourite discoveries in Ehime because the attractions feel connected to the town rather than separated into a tourist district.
Return to Matsuyama for an evening flight, continue by train or take the high-speed boat to Hiroshima.
Alternative 5 days route: (mountains over coast): Base in Takamatsu (Days 1–2) for the city and Naoshima, then move to the Iya Valley / Ōboke area (Days 3–5) for the vine bridges and gorge, skipping the west coast entirely.
Where to stay in Matsuyama
- Dogo Yaya is a contemporary hotel around five minutes from Dogo Onsen Honkan. It is a good compromise when you want the Dogo location without booking a full traditional ryokan stay.
- Funaya is the splurge option. This long-established ryokan has centuries of history, a Japanese garden and its own hot-spring facilities. Choose it when the accommodation experience is an important part of the trip.
- Dougoya offers simple Japanese-style rooms with a more intimate guesthouse atmosphere and is around five minutes from Dogo Onsen Station.
7-day Shikoku itinerary
A week allows you to add the interior without turning every day into a transfer. Rather than claiming to cover all four prefectures, this itinerary focuses on three contrasting areas: Takamatsu and Naoshima, the Iya Valley and Kochi. Fly into Takamatsu and out of Kochi, or travel in reverse.
Base 1 — Takamatsu (Days 1–2)
Days 1–2: Takamatsu and Naoshima
Begin in Takamatsu (Ritsurin Garden, sanuki udon), then take the ferry day trip to Naoshima. City, garden and art island make a strong opening.
Base 2 — Iya Valley (Days 3–5), via Tokushima
Day 3: Tokushima
Ride the Limited Express Uzushio to Tokushima (about 1 hour). See the Naruto whirlpools by sightseeing boat or from the Uzu-no-michi glass walkway under the Ōnaruto Bridge — check a tide table, as the whirlpools are strongest at tidal peaks. Learn about the Awa Odori dance at the Awa Odori Kaikan. Spend the night in Tokushima before driving into the mountains the next day.
Days 4–5: Iya Valley
Take a limited-express train to Ōboke, then continue by rental car, bus or pre-arranged accommodation transfer. If you are hiring a car only for the rural section, collect it near Takamatsu, Kotohira or another convenient larger station rather than assuming there will be plenty of vehicles available at Ōboke.
Stop for the Ōboke Gorge sightseeing boat before continuing into Iya. The valley roads are spectacular, but they are narrow and slower than they look on a map. Plan to reach your accommodation before dark.
The next day, visit the Iya no Kazurabashi vine bridge early to beat the tour groups, cross it slowly to take in the drop to the river below, and then find the Shōben Kozō “peeing boy” statue perched over the ravine.
If you have enough time, travel further towards Ochiai village or the Oku-Iya double vine bridges. Nagoro, often known as the scarecrow village, is much further into the mountains than the main Kazurabashi bridge. Include it only when you are comfortable driving on narrow roads and have a full day available.
Do not treat Iya as a quick photo stop. The appeal lies as much in the wooded slopes, scattered houses and feeling of isolation as in the individual attractions. It’s the part of Shikoku that most rewards extra time.
Where to stay in the Iya Valley
- Hotel Iya Onsen is a secluded ryokan overlooking the valley. Its open-air bath is reached by a small cable car descending towards the river. It is particularly suited to couples or travellers looking for a memorable onsen stay.
- Hotel Kazurabashi is closer to the main vine bridge and serves local dishes around a traditional hearth. Its mountain open-air bath is also reached by cable car. This is the more practical choice when the Kazurabashi area is your main focus.
Both are rural properties. Reserve dinner with the room, because there may be few alternative restaurants nearby.
Base 3 — the west coast (Days 6–7)
Day 6: Kochi
Drive or take the train south to Kochi and return the rental car unless you plan to explore the countryside on Day 7. Spend the afternoon at Kochi Castle, another of Japan’s twelve original castle keeps. Unlike many surviving castles, Kochi retains both its original keep and the former lord’s palace.
In the evening, head to Hirome Market for katsuo no tataki. The bonito is seared over a straw fire, sliced thickly and usually served with salt, garlic, spring onion or ponzu.
The next day, start early and, with a car, choose one main area to explore. The Niyodo River and one of its gorges are best for clear blue water and forest scenery. The Shimanto River suits travellers interested in cycling, kayaking, traditional boat trips and rural landscapes. Katsurahama and the Kochi coast are easier when you want a shorter excursion before returning to the city. Fly from Kochi Ryoma Airport or continue your journey by train.
Where to stay in Kochi
- Dormy Inn Kochi is a convenient city-centre hotel with a hot-spring bath. It is within walking distance of Hirome Market, Kochi Castle and the shopping arcades, although drivers should check the current parking arrangements.
- Jyoseikan is a historic ryokan-style hotel established in 1874. It offers a more traditional stay while remaining within Kochi city and is a good choice when you would prefer Japanese hospitality to a compact business hotel.
Alternative seven-day route: when hot springs, castles and traditional towns appeal more than Kochi’s food and rivers, replace the final two Kochi nights with Matsuyama (Takamatsu → Iya Valley → Matsuyama). This version works particularly well when you plan to depart from Matsuyama Airport or continue to Hiroshima by boat.
10-day Shikoku itinerary: the complete island route
Three or four bases. Ten days lets you slow right down, add coastal, mountain and cultural side trips, and build in rest between transfers.
Base 1 — Takamatsu (Days 1–2)
Days 1–2: Takamatsu and Naoshima
Start with Takamatsu and Naoshima, and add Teshima. Visit Ritsurin Garden, explore the harbour and try your first bowl of sanuki udon. Spend a full day on Naoshima. Travellers with a particularly strong interest in contemporary art could add an extra day for Teshima, but I would not try to visit both islands properly in a single day.
Base 2 — Tokushima (Days 3–4)
Days 3–4: Tokushima and Naruto
Collect your rental car and drive east towards Naruto. See the whirlpools by sightseeing boat or from the Uzu-no-michi walkway beneath the Ōnaruto Bridge. The best viewing period is around high or low tide, so organise the day around the tide chart rather than arriving at a random time.
Continue into Tokushima city for lunch and, when time permits, visit the Awa Odori Kaikan, where performances introduce the region’s famous dance throughout the year, not only during the August festival. Base yourself in Tokushima for these two nights.
Base 3 — Iya Valley (Days 5–6)
Days 5–6: Iya Valley
Drive into the Iya Valley — a full travel day on winding mountain roads, so start early. Non-drivers can skip Naruto and reach Ōboke directly by limited-express train. Give the valley two full days: the Kazurabashi bridge, the Ōboke gorge, and — if you have a car — the remote Nagoro “scarecrow village” and the thatched Chiiori farmhouse deeper in the mountains. Stay at Hotel Iya Onsen or Hotel Kazurabashi.
Base 4 — the west coast (Days 7–10)
Days 7–8: Kochi Prefecture
Go beyond Kochi city. With a car, follow the coast toward the Shimanto River — often called Japan’s last clear-running river — or out to Cape Ashizuri. This is the stretch where a rental really earns its keep.
Days 9–10: Matsuyama and surroundings
End in Matsuyama at an easy pace. Drive or take the highway bus to Matsuyama and return the car on arrival unless you need it for the final day trips. Check in around Dogo Onsen and enjoy an evening bath.
Visit the castle, Ishite-ji and the Dogo neighbourhood. Matsuyama is an easy city in which to wander, with trams, covered shopping streets and small places to stop for mikan juice and sweets.
Add a side trip to Uchiko and Ozu if you want a final highlight before flying home. Begin in Uchiko for the merchant streets and theatre, then continue to Ozu for the castle, Garyu Sanso and old town.
Language barriers in rural Shikoku
English isn’t widely spoken once you leave the main cities, especially in mountain villages and family-run guesthouses. It rarely makes travel difficult, but a little preparation smooths everything out.
Download an offline translation app (Google Translate’s camera mode is invaluable for menus and signs), save a few key Japanese phrases, and keep your accommodation’s name and address written in Japanese to show drivers or station staff. Keep screenshots of bus timetables and final departure times. A Japanese eSIM or pocket Wi-Fi is especially valuable during a road trip, but download offline maps as a backup. Having your destination pinned on a map to point at goes a long way. In my experience, people in Shikoku are patient and helpful even when communication is limited. A greeting, a thank you and having the correct destination ready to show someone will take you a long way.
Practical Shikoku planning tips
- Book Naoshima museums before finalising the rest of the day. Ferry times alone do not determine whether your itinerary works.
- Reserve Iya accommodation with dinner. Rural restaurants may close early or require driving along dark mountain roads.
- Pack lightly. Some smaller railway stations have limited lifts, while ryokans and rural buses may not have much room for large cases.
- Use luggage forwarding between major cities. Sending a suitcase from Takamatsu to Kochi or Matsuyama and carrying a smaller overnight bag into Iya can make the mountain section much easier.
- Check closures shortly before travelling. Heavy rain, typhoons, snow and maintenance can affect trains, ferries, bridges and mountain roads.
- Do not rely entirely on estimated driving times. Add stops, toll gates, narrow roads and the likelihood that you will want to pull over for photographs.
Shikoku itinerary FAQ
When is the best time to visit Shikoku?
The best times to visit Shikoku are spring (late March to early April) for cherry blossoms and mild weather, and autumn (October to November) for the Iya Valley’s foliage and comfortable temperatures. Summer is hot and humid with a real typhoon risk from August onwards, though it brings the spectacular Awa Odori dance festival in Tokushima in mid-August. Winter is quiet and excellent for onsen, but snow and closures can affect the Iya Valley’s mountain roads. If you can, avoid Golden Week (late April to early May), when domestic travel and prices peak.
How many days do you need in Shikoku?
Five days is enough for the highlights — Takamatsu, Naoshima and Matsuyama with its castle and Dogo Onsen. Seven days lets you add the Iya Valley and Kochi without rushing, and ten days is ideal for a complete, unhurried loop of the island with coastal and rural side trips.
Do you need a car to travel around Shikoku?
You don’t need a car for the main cities — trains and trams connect Takamatsu, Tokushima, Kochi and Matsuyama comfortably. A car is strongly recommended for the Iya Valley and rural Kochi, where buses run only a few times a day. Many travellers use trains between the cities and rent a car just for the mountain and coastal sections.
Can you visit Shikoku without a car?
Yes. You can reach the Iya Valley by limited-express train to Ōboke and connecting local buses to the Kazurabashi vine bridge, though services are infrequent, so plan around the timetable. For the more remote spots such as Nagoro or the Oku-Iya double bridges, a guided day tour is the easiest car-free option.
How do you get to Shikoku from Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka?
From Tokyo, the fastest option is a domestic flight (about 1 hour 20 to 40 minutes) into Takamatsu, Matsuyama, Kochi or Tokushima. From Kyoto, Osaka or Hiroshima, take the Shinkansen to Okayama and transfer to the Marine Liner to Takamatsu — roughly 55 minutes across the Seto Ōhashi Bridge.
Is Shikoku worth visiting?
Yes, especially if you want a quieter, more local side of Japan. Shikoku combines landscape gardens, contemporary-art islands, dramatic mountain valleys, original castles, hot springs and distinctive regional food, all with far fewer crowds than Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka.
Final thoughts
Shikoku isn’t a place to rush. Whether you have 5, 7, or 10 days, the best itinerary is the one that matches your transport choice, your pace, and the kind of trip you actually want.
Short on time? Keep the route tight and coastal — art island, historic city, hot spring. Have longer? Slow down, head into the Iya Valley, and give the island’s quiet corners the time they deserve. Either way, Shikoku offers a version of Japan that most visitors never see, and it’s well worth the detour off the main tourist trail.
Of all the places I have visited in Japan, Shikoku has been my favourite. It offers the gardens, temples, castles, food and warm hospitality that made me fall in love with travelling in Japan in the first place, but with fewer crowds and far more space to linger. There is still so much of the island I would love to explore, and I honestly cannot wait to go back.
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Great post! I visited Shikoku for the first time last month to do part of the Shikoku Henro, and I loved it. So much nature, relatively easy to get to. Great for cycling. I was really pleasantly surprised that I met more English speakers than in Kyoto… in the most unusual places. That was quite cool actually.
Thank you, and so glad you enjoyed it! Shikoku really is underrated: the nature and the cycling especially. Interesting what you say about English speakers. When I first visited back in 2018 I didn’t come across many at all, but I definitely noticed a difference on my second trip, so you may well be right that it’s changing. Although I should admit my Japanese friend was with me the first time round, so I probably wasn’t put in the position of needing to find them! Which part of the henro did you walk?